Amidst the cold (well, the 20s in comparison to Madrid’s balmy 40s-50s) and thoughts of Amelie and Ratatouille, I spent a long weekend exploring Paris with a class at SLU that was open for other students to join them. We were a small group of 5 students (2 actually in the class) and a professor that I really liked (and only partly because he was recently diagnosed with type 1 diabetes).
Some of the themes were food (crepes, Orangina, open-air markets on side streets, and even a well-established international scene with many Greek and Japanese restaurants), lights (mostly on buildings at night making for some awesome pictures), city planning (lots of open spaces and wide streets, which is especially visible from the top of the Eiffel Tower), bookstores (multiple on every corner, but maybe more salient because I was traveling with a literature class), water and bridges (the Seine River runs through the city inspiring interesting architecture and landscapes, the marsh contrasting with the arid land in Madrid and Spain), and art, art, and more art (There’s more art than places to exhibit it –galleries, museums, on the street…They were at least smart enough to devise a system to keep the works organized in the national museums such the the Louvre has the oldest pieces up to the 1890s, the Orsay has the impressionists and pieces from the 1890s to 1914 or so, and then the Pompidou has everything after 1914.).
I was on my feet from my early morning wandering (starting at 10am is for the weak!) to tours of assorted neighborhoods and museums (check out my itinerary) for about 12 hours a day Thursday, Friday, and Saturday–counting food breaks for fabulous crepes, salads, salmon, and as much soup as I could get my spoon on to fight the cold. Thank goodness for my running leggings and under armor because blue jeans with two sweaters and a sweatshirt underneath a jacket and scarf would not have been enough for me.
Once again, luck was on our side as we had a great hotel location (very nearby the Notre-Dame Cathedral, the Sorbonne French university, Luxembourg Gardens, the Pantheon, and the Latin Quarter), missed all the long lines with our group guided-tours of the museums and managed to catch all forms of public transportation before our fingers and toes fell off. Though we were definitely paying quite a bit more for all this “luck,” everything went smoothly throughout our super-saturated trip. As a means of contrast, my friend was also in Paris this weekend and her hostal located 20 minutes outside of the city on public transportation was too new to have hot water and waited in line at the Louvre and Eiffel Tower for a few hours.
Like my first days in Madrid, I was frustrated because I couldn’t communicate with the locals despite my yearning to do so–except it’s obviously a bit more extreme since I have never studied French. I wanted to ask the market-men where are you from?, what’s the best in season?, or even the stupidest question of how much? My stark independence and rabid curiosity were forced to be constrained. The Professor interacted with the locals and served the vital role in translating menus, so I didn’t suffer too badly nor find even one instance of the rude French stereotype. The only stereotype I got a whiff of was smelly French people; I kept thinking it was me and found myself checking my breath or recalling if I put on deodorant that morning.
I came to realize, though, that no matter how much I may want to be a part of another culture–be it French, Spanish–I will always be an observer, never a member. I can’t look the part or speak with the native’s flair or even think and act instinctively in any of this rich cultures I have been visiting. No amount of studying, immersion, hair dye, or plastic surgery will ever do the trick. Part of me is saddened by this illusiveness, but it also makes each place and culture all the more beautiful and exotic because I know that it will never be and must remain at the level of a Platonic love affair.
Lots of excellent pictures and you can get a better sense of the chronology and reasoning of things by reading the captions like a story.