Both Stockholm and Gothenburg could have been anywhere USA. Seems h
ard to believe, but it was the first place I found a Target-like store (which seems like an indication of America to me). Restaurants, stores, the hodgepodge of architecture, and my favorite—BARBEQUES! (they used these handy, disposable aluminum pans with charcoal roasting beneath a wire rack)—were all reminiscent of the home I was so close to returning to. American TV and all-English channels were just as common as Swedish ones and that is mostly due to the large bilingual population that sometimes switches between languages mid-conversation. The word you say in Swedish when you see someone on the street is Hey! (though it is spelled hej in Swedish). They also claim to not have their own arts culture and as a result the majority of their music (Jack Johnson is huge) and movies are American or, perhaps, British. The love of Ikea, H&M clothing, Volvo, Pippi Longstocking and the Nobel Prize are all associated with Sweden. And it was as if I was home because I wasn’t stared at (maybe my 25% Swedish heritage was shining through).
But, Sweden does have its own attributes. Take the food. I tried Chocolate Chili ice cream, oodles of black licorice candy, cola chews, and salt-flavored or -coated gummies. I bet it’s all around the world, but I had never before seen anything but lemon water while here I found cucumber and orange slices floating in pitchers of water. New tastes included Honey Saffron ice cream, Flabar flowers (sorry, no one knew the translation) used in lemonade or refreshing sorbet, and one that I didn’t try, tubes of salty caviar (could be dill, lemon, or any other variety of flavors). The assortment of breads and rye crackers was pleasantly overwhelming to the omnipresent white bread and baguettes in Spain. The biggest shocker was the fact that traditional Swedish meatballs are eaten not with noodles, but with boiled potatoes, a cranberry-like sauce, and sweet pickles. For breakfast, we had a very soft flatbread and muesli with yogurt in an orange juice-like carton that is unscrewed and poured out.

While I was there I met uncharacteristic 26 degree (79 F) weather which was quite an assault to the long sleeve and blue jean wardrobe I had packed. In fact, while there I got my first sunburn—even after four months in Spain! This was the main reason why I waited to go to Sweden to visit my cousins (well, third cousins). One is a student in the university town of Gothenburg and the other works not too far from Stockholm, where we rendezvoused after short train rides on both our parts.
Considering I was visiting my cousin during classes at her school, much of the talk was about the similarities and differences between Swedish and American university. Her university reminded me of so many other schools I have been to in the US. Computer labs, library, separate buildings for all the departments, construction, and flyers everywhere. Adding in a third comparison, the universities I had seen in Spain and other countries were either historic sites or just not appreciated with the same respect as I am familiar with. These buildings looked like students lived here and spent most of their time studying (er, “studying”) in contrast to so many others that seemed to just be places for class and then you leave.
In Sweden, being one of the most utopian and advanced country of Europe (as you go south, claims my Spanish professor, things deteriorate), education is free and the government even gives a monthly subsidy to help cover housing and food. Dorm living is not nearly as popular abroad and Greek life does not exist, as far as we could tell. But her university (and perhaps others), have Societies to serve the fraternity/sorority role. Although they are more academic oriented for a specific major, they throw parties, have a similar recruitment process for the current members to “bid” on you, and informal initiation tasks in order to show your dedication to the society. Within a university building, each society has a “secret” room to hangout and store their stuff in, often furnished with a huge sofa and big screen TV. Picking up a flavor of Scouts, each society has a jumpsuit uniform that is worn whenever they gather and is decorated with patches from other societies they have worked with or for completing predetermined tasks. It is an honor to be a member and an excellent resume attribute, but also a huge time commitment.
We wandered the city and a huge park with a free zoo (that would never happen in the US). I learned about a pick-up baseball game Swedes like to play called Burning Ball, the influx of immigrants, and how Sweden is losing religion with the exception of the songs on the last day of school they sing. Really, it could have been anywhere in the US.
Stockholm had a similar American-vibe to Gothenburg, too, but not as strong. The hippie, organic, fair trade only population is thriving, as we saw in one market and somehow people in University of Michigan apparel were all over the city. I must have seen at least 5 people wearing hats or shirts. Maybe there was some sort of reunion? Were they Swedes or tourists? We were puzzled, but it was fun spotting them all over.
Like New York City, Stockholm has a few islands, one of which reminded me of Mackinac Island with its resort atmosphere, folk culture, and nation-renowned foods. It is mostly a national park area with trails and little restaurants to grab a snack, but at the entrance dock where the ferry drops you off is the complete antithesis to all the tranquility and nature, a tourist-ized amusement park. Eww.
I found the city of Stockholm to be quite dirty with trash and graffiti more present than I recall in any of the other cities I visited. There must have been something about the area by our hostal because I saw people peeing in the streets at least three times over the course of two days. This was both drunken peeing as well as a woman who dropped her pants in broad daylight. Bushes or on the side of the street, it didn’t matter. Granted, the shock-quality of public peeing could be due to my suburb-upbringing, but I cannot recall it being so prevalent in any other place.
Our hostal was literally floating, located in the lower cabins of a docked boat turned restaurant, so we got the smells, compact spaces, and movements of an old ship all weekend. Throughout the weekend my cousin and I kept having the sensation that the ground was rocking.

It was interesting interacting with the locals because my cousin is Swedish and obviously speaks the language, but I just have English. Sometimes it was assumed that I knew Swedish and other times people assumed she didn’t know Swedish. I would ask a question in English and they would struggle to get a clear response back until she intervened. It was always this odd mix of English and Swedish, no one ever sure which language to speak (since many Swedes know English) or how much anyone understood. Again, between my Spanish, English, and ability to read people there was quite a lot that I did understand without translation (I could even sound out some menu items).
Even after walking all over the old part of the city and seeing the changing of the guard, searching for restaurants to eat at, visiting a market and some shopping streets, as well as enjoying the views from the national park and a big rock hill, we still managed to have more time than we knew what to do with in Stockholm. We played cards (I learned a new favorite) and went to the movies (English with Swedish subtitles) because for some reason this was the only weekend in May that didn’t have any live shows.
Disregarding the currency confusion (because Swedish Krona prices seem 10 times larger than Euros or Dollars, even with a balanced exchange rate—e.g. 84 Kr for a sandwich), some new characters in the language, and traffic lights that went Green, Yellow, Red, Yellow, Green, I really felt like I could have been in the US. I just didn’t feel too culturally challenged, though I think being with my cousins shielded me a bit from that. If it weren’t for them, I would probably never have visited nor felt like I was missing out on too much. Then again, it is kind of interesting finding a place where you feel like you are at home when you are so far from it. To counter this normality, the next time I visit my cousins and I are going to go to the northern tip of the country to see the Northern Lights and visit the cities of the Midnight Sun Coast, where there is only 1 hour of daylight or 1 hour of night, depending on the season.